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Attitude Adjustment Program | |
NOTE: This is used to assist clients whose dogs are exhibiting aggression related to power issues between dog & owner. This is NOT an approach for fearful dogs exhibiting defense aggression (though some techniques are similar) or for dogs whose aggression springs from biochemical or physical problems. The aggression problem you are experiencing is a symptom of a confused relationship between you and your dog. Surprisingly, this is not uncommon, and it is understandable since two very different species are involved. Just as cultural differences exist between people, there are strong cultural differences between dogs and humans, which can lead to serious misunderstandings. Your human perception of your behavior toward the dog is not the same as your dog's perception of the same behavior. For example, you may pet your dog simply because you love him and want him to feel good. But unless that attention comes as a result of the dog complying with your rules and wishes, he may perceive the attention as proof that you rank lower than he does in the family structure. NO FREE LUNCH - Your dog must learn to value your attention, playtime and food. From now on, he will receive nothing from you without giving you something in return such as a sit. For example, if he would like to be petted or have a toy thrown, he must sit promptly on the FIRST command. You may then pet him briefly or throw the toy once or twice. If he fails to sit, ignore him and do not give him any attention or petting for at least 3 minutes. You may then try again. TEACH SELF CONTROL - See the article on Teaching Self Control as well as our booklet, "Understanding & Teaching Self Control" PUT ALL TOYS AWAY - Leave one or two toys to chew on and that the dog can play with by himself. Put all other toys away - these will now be the toys that you use to play with the dog. YOU will now choose play time, when it begins, when it ends, and what the rules are. DO play with your dog, but expect him to do something before you throw the toy. If he refuses, quietly get up, put the toy away & ignore him for at least 10 minutes PUT FOOD UNDER YOUR CONTROL - Free choice feeding is a poor idea for dogs who are not by nature meant to nibble all day. At specific times, you feed your dog, and use this time to make him really work for his meals. Remember, you may be giving him a hundred or more "training opportunities" in each bowl - make him work by sitting for just 2-3 kibble in his bowl at a time. CONSIDER CHANGING FOODS - Your dog may not have skin problems, diarrhea, vomiting or other obvious signs of allergies, but in my experience, behavior problems, irritability, poor appetite, excessive stool and/or gas, recurring hot spots or ear infections point to possible food allergies or food intolerances. Many dogs receive far too much protein, which is converted into energy which can be a problem if the dog has no acceptable outlet for that energy. First, evaluate the protein - see if you can lower it by switching to another food. Try a food whose main ingredients are unlike your current dog food. If, for example, your current dog food contains chicken and corn, seek out lamb & rice, turkey & barley, duck & potato, etc. Also read the labels on treats - full of calories, high protein & stuffed with chemicals, sugars, salts & preservatives, many dog treats are not a great addition to your dog's diet. EXERCISE - A huge percentage of problem dogs do not receive sufficient exercise. Increase your dog's exercise by long walks, jogging, playing in the back yard or whatever he enjoys, and keep it regular and vigorous. Remember - unused energy has to go somewhere, and a tired dog is almost always a good dog. WHEN IN DOUBT, WALK OUT. Use your dog's natural desire for your attention to work for you. If the dog becomes aggressive when asked to do something, simply withdraw your attention. This may mean you need to go into another room and shut the door for a few minutes. When you re-enter the room, use a treat to call the dog to you, then ask him to sit or lay down, rewarding him for showing you his willingness to work with you. If he does not comply, walk away again. USE TRAINING EQUIPMENT - Rather than grab a dog who is misbehaving, you are better off leaving a training collar and lead on him while you are with him. (Never on an unattended dog.) If appropriate, quietly pick up the leash and gently reinforce the command. Be calm but firm. ANTICIPATE PROBLEMS - Knowing what situations may trigger your dog's aggression and his body language changes will allow you to prevent this behavior from occurring. For example, if your dog is aggressive when people enter the house, have him on lead and sitting as they enter, instead of trying to stop him from running around out of control and biting. Whenever possible, help the dog substitute desirable behavior for his problem behavior and PRAISE! TRAIN - Initially, you may need to work on your dog's behavior and your relationship with your dog in private lessons. Once your dog's basic problems are under control, enroll in a basic obedience class to help your dog become a more enjoyable companion, and improve your overall relationship with your dog. Remember, training is a lifetime process, not a quick fix. The sooner you begin, the more years you will have to truly enjoy your dog. For further reading, we recommend the Behavior Booklet Set, available in our on-line catalog. ----------------- Reprinted from http://www.flyingdogpress.com | |
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