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To Stake or Not to Stake


Gardening articlesTo Stake or Not to Stake

by Dr. Leonard Perry, Extension Professor,University of Vermont    



To stake, or not to stake, that is a question which often leads to heated debate when gardeners gather to talk about their perennial gardens.

Some gardeners insist that staking is only appropriate in well-staffed, formal gardens and is not appropriate in the home garden. Others say tall plants look and grow better when staked regardless of the setting. Other gardeners argue that the less work and maintenance, the better, so vote against staking. Still others believe that perennials can carry their own weight--without a gardener's intervention--and will not flop over or break.

So what's the answer? I think it depends on what you want to do although there are some situations where staking really is needed. Tall- and medium-sized plants with heavy, large flowers often need support. These include peonies, delphiniums, bellflowers, and many New England asters. Other perennials, like snakeroot, ornamental grasses, daylilies, Siberian irises, beebalm, and purple coneflowers usually can be left alone.

 
Generally, the more formal the garden, the more likely staking will be needed. You also may need to stake plants if your garden is in a windy spot, or where there is heavy rainfall. But there is no set rule for staking. If a plant looks like it will fall over or break, then stake!

Some plants may require staking if grown under less than ideal growing conditions. What I mean by this is that a sun-loving perennial will grow taller and weaker when planted in a shady spot. If planted where it gets full sun, it won't need staking. The same goes for plants placed too close together. They grow tall and weak because of overcrowding and may need to be staked.

There are several staking methods that can be used to protect plants from leaning or breaking. Some methods are more suitable for some plants than others. All should be put in place when plants are no more than six inches tall.

SINGLE STAKES--These are often used for perennials with a few stems and heavy, large flowers, such as delphiniums and dahlias. Bamboo is most commonly used for stakes although it may not offer proper support for tall and heavy plants. For these plants, use one-inch thick wooden stakes (often available at garden centers in bundles of several stakes).

A more expensive option is to use lightweight aluminum green stakes from garden centers and mail order outlets. I prefer stiff iron rods, similar to what are used to reinforce concrete. You can get these at full service supply or hardware stores and have them cut to lengths needed. When buying single stakes, keep in mind that you will need to plan on about one to two feet below the ground in addition to the height needed above ground.
 

Tie the plant to the stake using soft string or "twist-ems" when the flower stalk is fully elongated and buds start to form. If you notice the stems starting to twist or lean before buds form, it's okay to stake earlier.

Wrap the tie around the stake and then form a loose figure eight around the plant stem. Do not use bare wire as this will damage the stem.

CAGES--You have many options here. You could place a framework of stakes around the plant, then weave twine around the stakes to form a cage. Or attach twine around the stakes then string it between the stakes through the middle of the cage. You also should visit your local garden center to see what they have available in the way of plastic and metal rings.

Timing is critical in staking. Do it early, just as soon as the new stems appear. Apply single stakes before flower buds are well formed and opened. The stakes and ties will be hidden once the new foliage starts to grow.


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University of Vermont





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