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Growing Squash and Pumpkins in the Home Garden





History and Taxonomy

Squash and pumpkins will be discussed together because their cultural requirements are similar and because of the great confusion in differentiating between the two. There is also confusion about the origin of pumpkins and squash. T.W. Whitaker and G.W. Bohn presented evidence in 1950 that five species of Cucurbita, that are known as pumpkins and squash, originated in the Americas.

Whitaker and Bohn also defined the terms pumpkin, summer squash, and winter squash as follows:

Pumpkin-the edible fruit of any species of Cucurbita, used when ripe as a table vegetable or in pies; flesh is somewhat coarse and/or strongly flavored, hence is not generally served as a baked vegetable.

Summer Squash-The edible fruit of any species of Cucurbita, commonly C. pepo, used when immature as a table vegetable.

Winter Squash-The edible fruit of any species of Cucurbita used when ripe as a table vegetable or in pies; flesh is usually fine-grained and of mild flavor, hence is suitable for baking.

Climate

Most of the seeds of pumpkin and squash will not germinate satisfactorily in cold soil, and the plants are injured by light frosts. Planting should be delayed until the soil has warmed to 68 degrees F at a depth of four inches and the danger of frost has passed. The use of summer squash transplants should be considered if early harvest is important.

Fertilizer and Lime

Fertilizer and lime applications are best based on soil test results. Soil sample bags, forms, and instructions are available from your county Extension office. General recommendations, when using black plastic mulch, would be one pound of actual nitrogen, two pounds of phosphorus (P2O5) and three pounds of potash (K2O) per 1,000 square feet. On bare ground, increase the amount of nitrogen by 25 percent. This would best be done as a sidedress application when vines begin to run. Lime should be applied only if indicated by a soil test so as to maintain a pH between 6.5 and 6.8.

Culture

The use of black plastic mulch will conserve moisture and help control weeds in the row. Spacing of the plants or seeds in the row depends on the growth habit of the vegetable. For bush type squash and pumpkins, hills of two plants should be spaced three to four feet apart with rows on four to five foot centers. For vining types, hills of two plants should be spaced five feet apart with rows on seven foot centers. The vining types of squash and pumpkins need the extra space and will invade even more space if allowed, so plan and plant accordingly.

Insects and Diseases

Important insect pests of pumpkin and squash are the squash bug, squash vine borer, cucumber beetle, and aphids. Important diseases are powdery mildew, downy mildew, angular leaf spot, black rot and gummy stem blights, mosaic viruses, and bacterial wilt. For assistance, consult your county Extension agent for the latest recommendations.

Pollination

Home gardeners and others frequently become confused because many blossoms do not set fruit. They need to understand that the male and female parts are in separate flowers and only the female flowers produce fruits.

Harvesting

Summer squashes of all types and varieties should be harvested when they reach a size of four to six inches long and 1.5 to 2.5 inches in diameter. This ensures high-quality fruit and additional fruit production.

High-quality winter squashes and pumpkins are associated with maturity, so they should not be harvested until they are fully ripe. Fruits subjected to a hard frost will not keep, so harvest should be completed before cold weather.

A portion of the stem is usually left attached to the pumpkin or squash at harvest time. Halloween pumpkins are most attractive when a stem or "handle" is carefully allowed to remain.

Storage of Winter Squash and Pumpkins

Store only those fruit that are free of cuts, wounds, and insect or disease damage. Immediately after harvest, the fruit should undergo a ripening or curing process to harden the shell. A curing period of about two weeks at 75 to 85 degrees F with good circulation is desirable. Storage should then be at 50 to 70 degrees F with humidity between 50 and 70 percent.

Varieties

Based on university trials, the following cultivated varieties or "cultivars" are recommended:

Summer Squash (summer squash are bush types)

  • Straightneck
    • Multi-pick
    • Precious

  • Crookneck
    • Superset
    • Medallion
    • Sundance

  • Zucchini (golden color)
    • Gold Rush

  • Zucchini (green color)
    • Ambassador
    • Spineless Beauty

  • Patty Pan
    • Peter Pan
    • Sunburst

Winter Squash (vining type, unless noted)

  • Acorn
    • Table Queen
    • Table King (bush)
    • Table Ace (semi-bush)
    • Table Queen, ebony strain
    • Cream of the Crop (bush)

  • Butternut
    • Zenith
    • Ultra Butternut
    • Ponca (semi-bush)
    • Puritan
    • Waltham Butternut

  • Vegetable Spaghetti
    • Vegetable Spaghetti
    • Tivoli (bush)

  • Buttercup
    • Burgess Strain
    • Sweet Mama

  • Hubbard
    • Golden Hubbard (red-orange)
    • Green Warted Hubbard (blackish-green)
    • Blue Hubbard (light blue-gray)

  • Turk's Turban
    • Turk's Turban

  • Sweet Potato Squash
    • Delicata
    • Delicata JS

Pumpkins

  • Miniature Pumpkin
    • Munchkin
    • Jack Be Little
    • Baby Bear (1993 All American Selection)
    • Baby Boo (white)

  • Halloween Pumpkin
    • Howden
    • Jackpot
    • Spirit
    • Small Sugar (also used in pies)
    • Frosty (bush)
    • Connecticut Field
    • Ghost Rider
    • Jumpin Jack
    • Pankow Field (upright)
    • Autumn Gold
    • Happy Jack
    • Big Moon (pink-cream color)
    • Rouge Vif D'Etampes - deep red

  • Extra Large Halloween Pumpkin
    • Prizewinner
    • Big Max
    • Atlantic Giant

  • White Halloween Pumpkin
    • Baby Boo
    • Lumina (larger)

  • Pumpkins Suitable for Painting
    • Baby Boo
    • Munchkin
    • Lumina
    • Baby Pam
    • Gremlin

  • Naked, Hulless, Edible Seeded Pumpkin (seeds for snacks, roasted/raw)
    • Trick or Treat

The author gratefully acknowledges James D. Utzinger, William M. Brooks, and E.C. Wittmeyer on whose original fact sheet this is based. This fact sheet was reviewed by Eugene Wittmeyer, professor emeritus, The Ohio State University, Department of Horticulture, and Marianne Riofrio, Extension Associate, The Ohio State University.


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All educational programs conducted by Ohio State University Extension are available to clientele on a nondiscriminatory basis without regard to race, color, creed, religion, sexual orientation, national origin, gender, age, disability or Vietnam-era veteran status.

Keith L. Smith, Associate Vice President for Ag. Adm. and Director, OSU Extension.

TDD No. 800-589-8292 (Ohio only) or 614-292-1868







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